Sensuous Sosua
By Barbara Spring
Music, colorful paintings and sculpture, gentle brown
people, warm breezes playing over a turquoise bay, make Sosua Beach in the Dominican Republic a delight for all the senses.
The Dominican Republic, a green,
tropical Caribbean country, covers two thirds of the
island of Hispanolia. The other third is Haiti.
Some 500 years ago Christopher Columbus
discovered this tropical paradise. The island has
changed since then, but we were happy to discover the real pleasures of Sosua
and its surroundings.
We carried home some treasures from
the booths on Sosua Beach: curious
carvings, paintings, and jewelry made from amber and a blue colored stone found
on the island called larimar.
I bargained with a young man for a
mahogany carving of a black woman encircled with fish and birds and a stone
carving of a lizard sunning itself on a rock. On the beach we bought a
sea turtle carved from petrified wood, typical
of Dominican Republic art.
In addition, jewelry made of silver and blue larimar, and a black stone called hematite.
In nearby Puerto Plata, a jewelry factory keeps free lance
sellers well stocked.
Everywhere we went we caught the
rhythms of the merengue, the country's official music often played by a three
piece band on accordion, drum and a metal rasp that looks something like
a kitchen cabbage grater. The beat is infectious and people dance the merengue
joyfully.
"Our people like to have a
good time to forget they are poor," Pedro, a young native of the country
told us.
We liked the people we met. Women
carrying Carmen Miranda like baskets of fruit on their heads asked us softly if
we would like to buy a banana? a
pineapple perhaps? A coconut? Young girls offered to
braid our hair with colorful beads. These black women wore their hair in
small braided corn rows.
"On you it looks good, but not
us," I smiled. We saw tourists sporting little braids with multicolored
plastic beads.
While in the Dominican Republic we enjoyed the cuisine, especially the fine
desserts for this is a sugar growing economy. The waiters brought us cafe au
lait asking "More meelk? Orange juice?"
We found the tropical climate and the natives
caused us to slow down and to relax in a way that would not have been possible
at home.
We enjoyed the beaches with turquoise colored waters and long rollers people
rode on surfboards. A snorkeling trip we were counting on was scrubbed to high
waves, and my husband didn't catch any fish on his charter trip out to
sea. We didn't care. Bright colored tropical
flowers bloomed everywhere and natives walked up and down the beach
carrying long silvery fish and machetes.
From our hotel we took a horseback ride
into the hilly, forested countryside where the people lived in colorfully
painted houses with separate buildings for cooking. Sweet young children
offered to sell us flowers along the way. My horse was slow and the guide
urged it on with a small switch and shouting" Ariba ariba" as we rode
along. Some large rocks near a stream where we swam glittered aqua blue in the
sunlight. I believe the rocks contained the semi-precious larimar that I
had purchased.
Our guide, who looked a lot like a
young Harry Belefonte, was knowledgeable about his country and could speak five
languages. On the last day he led us through the streets of Puerto Plata where
we had planned on taking a cable car to the top of the mountain. The
cable car was not running due to high winds, so we went to the fort and visited
the amber museum instead. All the time Pedro chatted with us about his
country and found the best places to get refreshments.
The Dominican Republic is a poor
country but it is also a gem in the rough with its beaches, forests, flowers
and the local people who were unfailingly courteous and good humored.
It's a great place to unwind.
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