Whale Watching on the Sea of Cortez
Baja California, the
long finger of land dangling into
Mexico with the Sea of Cortez on one side and the Pacific Ocean
on the other, is full of surprise encounters. The Sea of Cortez is a playground
for whales and other marine mammals.
In La Paz, we embarked on a
small cruise ship fitted out with all sorts of equipment designed to
investigate this surprising environment. The trip opened worlds of wonder to
us.
The Sea Bird is
operated by Lindblad Cruises, a line that specializes in
ecotourism. Our guides were specialists in the flora and fauna of
Baja and though they had studied their specialties for many years, they as well
as we were constantly surprised by what we encountered.
“Look, a Blue Whale,” Steve
our expert in marine mammals shouted. “It’s the largest animal that
has ever lived on earth!”
We saw the dark, majestic
body of the whale surface and then slowly sound, several times. We
watched its dorsal fin and its graceful tail disappear quite close to
us. We peered through binoculars while we waited breathlessly for it
to emerge again from the mysterious waters that some call the Sea of
California.
Steve was full of
information: “These waters are ll,000 feet deep at their deepest...the whales
have a different song in each ocean basin... their low pitched voices can
travel l500 miles...no one knows how long they live...ivory harpoons have been
found in whales...best estimate..135-200 years.”
He told us the area is young
in geological time. Millennia ago, tectonic plates shifted
separating the Baja from the mainland causing the depths of the Sea of Cortez
and thrusting up the Sierra Madre Mountains on the mainland of Mexico.
“The rocky islands you see
are of volcanic origin,” he
explained.
Just then another whale
surfaced quite close to the ship “A Brydes Whale,” Steve
shouted. “I’ve never seen one before.”
We had not
either. The Sea of Cortez is full of whales as well as twenty other species
of marine mammals. There is plenty of room for them to cruise its
deep canyons and plenty of food brought up by upwelling currents.
Our scientist/guides on board seined the waters with a net to
see what sort of plankton they could find. They put a drop of water under a
microscope and hooked this to the t.v. in the lounge so we could see the
fascinating array of life on the t.v. screen--life forms only visible when
magnified. We saw the larvae of star fish and many beautiful shapes of diatoms. I
thought we might see krill, the preferred food of baleen whales, but such was
not the case. The seine net could not go deep enough to strain out
krill. Our day of whale watching changed to evening as we watched the
vivid colors on the rugged landscape we passed.
The next day we saw two humpback whales
spouting and sounding in unison, perhaps a mother and her calf. We
got quite close and Andrew, the ship’s underwater camera man went out in the
zodiac to film them. I gasped when I saw how close he was to the whale’s
flukes when he plunged into the water.
I asked him if he got any
pictures when he was back on the Sea Bird.
“My heart was just pounding,” he said, “but I couldn’t
get close enough for filming...we had equipment to record their voices, but they were not vocalizing.”
We learned to identify whales by
their spouts...these whales had V shaped spouts while the Blue Whale spouted
straight up. Gray whales have a heart shaped spout. Two Common
Dolphins rode the bow wake as we cruised along. I leaned over the rail to snap
photos. Toward evening the sunlight on the islands we passed turned their rose
madder colors to deep royal blues as a full moon rose over them.
We also had an underwater camera and we used it the next
day to photograph California Sea Lions.
We were up early and the
sunrise shining on the islands turned them to gold. After breakfast we donned
wetsuits provided by the cruise line along with fins and snorkels.
We could hear the barking of
the sea lions as they cavorted on a picturesque rocky island. These
were young males, pups, and their mothers. We slipped into the sea
and were greeted by playful sea lions under water. They zoomed by us
and peered into our masks with their large eyes. They played. I
imagined that one was dancing with me...twisting, looping, and sleek. I wished
I had just some of its underwater grace. All around us were vivid flashes of
bright colors and the fanciful patterns and shapes of tropical fish going about
their lives around the rocky island.
We stopped at Arroyo Blanco
to kayak around the sea caves. We heard the water surge and recede, sonorous
and low, boom in the caves where we paddled. Paddling close to the rocks we saw
Sally Lightfoot Crabs and lizards and many types of sea birds: pelicans, blue
footed boobies, osprey. On the sandy beach, small stones and shells washed in
and out with the waves.
We found paddling around the islands easier than walking.
Many varieties of cactus
march up the stony hillsides of the islands we visited. We took
hikes, mindful of the thorns. These rugged islands are not an easy place to
live, yet many species of plants have found a way to cling to the rocks in
drought and in the rainy season.
We were told that 99% of the
living space on planet Earth is in the oceans. I felt we had only scratched the
surface on this cruise yet there were mysteries and surprises
abounding. We were fortunate to see a Blue Whale, a Brydes Whale,and
Humpback Whales sounding and spouting in unison. We followed a Sperm
Whale, but it was elusive. We examined minute plankton through a microscope. We
saw many dolphins and swam with California Sea Lions. We saw
tropical fish and kayaked in sea caves. What a great adventure for two land
lubbers.